Have you ever sent a bottle of wine back at a restaurant or returned one to a wine shop? “Oh no,” you say, “I would never do that!” You mean you would rather drink--and pay good money for--something you don’t enjoy or that you think doesn’t taste quite right? Let’s look at some of the reasons—legitimate or not—why you might refuse a bottle of wine.
First, let’s address the question of personal taste. In defense of restaurants and wine shops, suppose you order or buy a wine with which you are unfamiliar (without soliciting any help from the staff) and then simply don’t like the way it tastes (you find it too sweet, too dry, too young, etc.)? In that case, as the French so eloquently put it, tant pis for you—chalk that bottle up as another learning experience. On the other hand, say you ask for information on--or a recommendation for-- a particular type of wine and the one you are given turns out not as described? Then by all means challenge the wine steward or salesman—a good one will always make things right. At our Shoalwater Restaurant, I always serve any wine I recommend with the caveat: “If you don’t like it, I’ll drink it”—and I mean it (or course, I’ve stacked the deck in my favor by carrying only wines I like).
Then there is the issue of wines that don’t taste right because there is really something wrong with them. It doesn’t happen frequently, but, unfortunately, wines that taste “off” are showing up more often than ever before. This usually happens for one of two reasons: first (and highly unusual in reputable places), a wine may taste oxidized (or “cooked”) because it has been improperly stored. Either the bottle was left standing up for a long time, allowing the cork to dry out and air to get in, or it was shipped or stored at too warm a temperature, both of which speed up the aging—or oxidation--process). A good indication of this problem is the color of the wine: as white wines age, their color deepens toward gold; as red wines age, their purple hues tend to lighten and become more and more brown. If you are served a relatively young wine with unusually gold or brown tones, oxidation may have contributed to premature aging and an unpleasant (and distinctly un-grapey) smell and taste. This is the same as what is known as the “over-the-hill” character in older wines that have gone past their prime.
More prevalent these days, however, is the second reason for “off” wines: corked bottles, which usually taste musty (like wet cardboard). A recent article on the subject by Andy Perdue, editor of Wine Press Northwest, describes the problem in scientific terms: “A wine is ‘corked’ when it is tainted by TCA (2,4,6-trichloro anisole), the result of a compound that can occur when chlorine comes into contact with wood products, including cork tree bark.” As he goes on to explain, chlorine is used to bleach cork bark as well as wood barrels. He concludes in disgust: “If a wine has TCA, there’s nothing left to do but stand over the sink, turn the bottle upside down and swear under your breath.” Although somebody does ultimately have to dump corked wines, it should really be the winery’s—and not your—problem. If you find yourself the recipient of a corked bottle in a restaurant or wine shop, send or take it back so it can be sent back up the distribution chain for credit.
This month’s winery pick: Having just completed a winemaker’s dinner with Shirley and Gail Puryear of Bonair Winery in Zillah, Washington, I was again reminded why I have always been a fan of the fairly-priced wines from this tiny but excellent winery: we sampled their lovely, Alsatian-style BFD (Big, Fruity, Dry) Riesling; a rich, forward and smooth 1997 Reserve Chardonnay; a mouth-filling but glove-soft 1997 Merlot; and an elegant, intense 1997 Morrison Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, all of which I can recommend without reservation.
March, 2001
Tony Kischner is the owner/manager/wine steward of The Shoalwater Restaurant in Seaview, Washington. Wine questions can be directed to him online at winedine@willapabay.org.
