Wine is always a wonderful subject for discussion among friends, because:

D o you think all birthdays and anniversaries must be celebrated with Champagne? Do you find it absurd to spend more than $10 on a bottle of wine? Do you prefer a crisp, steely, herbaceous Northwest Sauvignon Blanc to a full-bodied, heavily-oaked California Chardonnay? Do you enjoy a good Pinot Noir more than a Pinot Gris with your grilled sturgeon? Do you think a medium-dry Gewurztraminer is the perfect choice for Thanksgiving turkey? Do you have a hard time finding any red wines that you like? Well, if that’s how you feel, you’re right. And if I disagree, so am I. Ain’t that great?

W ine is a huge—and very subjective—topic. Each of us brings our own background and experience to the conversation, as well as our very individual sensory evaluations. As we taste more wines of different types and from other areas of the world, our wine memory expands and becomes richer. And as we become exposed to new varieties and blends, our tastes may very well change. We might begin to enjoy drier white wines to the sweeter ones with which we began. Or the Cabernet Sauvignons we used to find so tannic and puckery might not seem so harsh when we find one well blended with a soft Merlot.

What is important is to keep tasting and trusting your instincts, always leaving yourself open to new discoveries. While tasting new wines, it is also important not to lose sight of the fact that wine is simply another beverage, primarily designed to be enjoyed as an accompaniment to food. And for each of us, certain wines work especially well in combination with certain food flavors. I find the discovery of those “perfect” combinations to be a source of unending pleasure; in fact, I have built a career around that quest.

After 30 years of tasting wines professionally, I am happy to report that I have found very few wines that I don’t enjoy, unless they come from low-quality grapes or are poorly made. I love big, powerful Cabernets and Zinfandels as well as delicate Pinot Noirs; I greatly enjoy a dry Riesling at the beginning of a meal, and I really swoon over a very sweet one with (or as) dessert. Although I have had the good fortune to experience some of the finest and most expensive wines made in the world over the years, I do not judge a wine by its price tag, but rather by how it smells and taste regardless of its cost. In fact, the most delightful discoveries are those wonderful wines which burst with the flavor of their varietals and are offered at a reasonable price be lesser-known producers. This month’s discovery: Beran Vineyards Pinot Noir 1997 and 1998. These lovely Pinot Noirs are the first and second releases of a tiny winery in the hills just outside Hillsboro, Oregon. The Berans have been growing grapes for other major Oregon wineries for many years, but have recently decided to release wines under their own label. The ’97 is decidedly lighter than the blockbuster ’98, but it is equally elegant and much less expensive.