It is generally agreed that a top-notch dining experience should satisfy equally at all levels, regardless of price range. In evaluating restaurants, reviewers usually focus on the all-important aspects of food, service and ambiance. Wine, beer and beverage programs are sometimes mentioned (usually fleetingly with the food), sometimes not. It is certainly my bias that a review of any dining establishment is not complete without a full evaluation of its liquid selection and service.

In a region second only to California in the number of wineries (Oregon and Washington now have a combined total of over 350 wineries, with many more in the construction and planning stages), our better restaurants cannot ignore the many good wines produced at our back door. Whether we like our weather or not, our often-dreary climate has created the perfect atmosphere for the appreciation of deeply-flavored beers, as witnessed by the recent proliferation of offerings from the excellent craft breweries in the Northwest. Our region has even raised the bar on the quality of soft drinks, and one can now enjoy excellent root beers, birch beers and cream sodas made in the area. And let us not forget the national renaissance of the enjoyment of good coffee and tea, a relatively-recent phenomenon we now practically take for granted, which is certainly rooted in the Seattle and Portland areas.

It’s a chicken-or-egg kind of thing, but along with (or maybe because of) the expanded availability in the Northwest of good liquid refreshments has come a more sophisticated and demanding clientele. They know what to ask for, how to pronounce (and even spell) it, and what to expect for their money.

Not that every good restaurant must have a huge wine and beer list, a $10,000 copper espresso machine, and a sommelier or beverage manager to maintain and serve its liquid refreshments. What is important, however, is appropriateness and balance. A simple upscale café, pub or bistro should have at least: a) a representative selection of inexpensive-to-moderate wines of various types, most available by the glass or the bottle, and matched to the flavors on its menu; b) 2-3 good local brews on tap and a fair range of bottled options, again suited to its food; c) an array of interesting non-alcoholic beverages other than cola; and, of course, d) great coffee and tea. A full-menu, full-service dining room should offer: a) a list of bottled wines that covers a wide range in various price categories, spotlights the regional products and represents all the major varieties; b) an array of wines available by the glass that complement most of the menu items; and c) the same (or broader) availability of beer, non-alcoholic, and coffee/tea as a café. Although a café may list its beverages informally (on a blackboard or table tent), a full-service dining room should present a printed beverage list to each table that is well-organized and easy to read, and gives complete and pertinent information (such as place of origin and vintage) on all types of beverages available.

It goes without saying that, no matter what the dining environment, knowledgeable and competent service of all beverages (including appropriate temperature and glassware) is very important, and management should take advantage of the many tools at its disposal to train its staff accordingly. I will focus on such service details in a future column